Category: Galicia

In the past few weeks we have enjoyed many walks in the area of Panton in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra region of Galicia. An area rich with vineyards terraced up impossibly steep mountains (400-500 m high) on both sides of the Rio Mino and Rio Sil. Ribeira Sacra means Holy River bank, I am confident in confirming the region is sacred and the crown jewel of Galicia.

This wine making area dates back over 2000 years to early Christian times, where hermits and then monks settled in the vicinity. In Australia, we wouldn’t even consider walking up these steep slopes, let alone building our home with a vineyard. Here, the first terraces were carved out of rock by the Romans’ slaves and the grapes were carried up these steep terraces twice per day. Following the expulsion of Islamic invaders in the 15th century, monasteries gave renewed energy to wine production, encouraging people to re-settle here. Apparently, wine was made especially for the Pope. The combination of the native Mencia grape, slate and granite soils, and the micro-climates within the gorge, produce the right conditions for the distinctive and smooth red wines, unique to Galicia. We can confirm that they are the best red wines we have tasted anywhere in the world……….perhaps a little too easy to drink!

Traditionally, the wine is served in a ceramic jug, so to make our experience more authentic we managed to get completely lost in a maze of back country lanes to eventually find Gundivos Ceramica, who still manufacture traditional Galician pottery. We loved the ceramics as much as the wine, so our luggage has just become three kg heavier. The experience inspired another still life painting for my exhibition in September.

You will see after watching the video below about Gustivos Ceramica, why we just had to go……so will you. The narration is in Galego, a beautiful depiction of the property and surrounding area and the life of a potter. They are purists, making their own clay, climbing into a large pit for firing and a finishing blaze of fire for the final aesthetics.

 

RIO MINO:

Another day we decided to explore further up the river near the town of Pesqueiras, where we were in search of the Monastery Santo Estevo, but were distracted by this ‘picture perfect’ scene on the Rio Mino. We wandered down amongst the endless terraces of grapes passing gorgeous little homes, some of which were nearly swallowed up by their vineyard with only their roof tiles emerging. Eventually we crossed an old Roman bridge to the other side of the river and thought we must be close to the Monastery so we may as well walk from here. After no sign of any such structure, we sensibly back tracked and walked further down the same side of the river to the small village of Belesar.

Our thoughts were about lunch, so it seemed logical to walk to the nearest village. What?? No bars or cafes? Well that was a first in our experience of Galicia. We were so hungry and inspired by the spectacular scenery, the last hour uphill of the four hour walk back to our car didn’t hurt at all….ha ha. We then drove to the 12th century Monastery Santo Estevo which was mysteriously hidden in the forest.

 

When we first arrived in Galicia towards the end of April, we started to see the first sign of Spring with a few leaves sprouting from these ancient vines. It is difficult to believe that two months later, the vines are straining from the huge abundance of grapes plumping up ready for the picking. Being able to stay in Galicia for seven months has enabled us to witness almost every season and the changes in nature and agriculture. I know that I will not want to experience  a Galician Winter because I don’t own enough clothes……….I think 7 layers in Spring was enough.

MAGOSTO: CHESTNUT FESTIVAL

Unfortunately we will not be here in November, when the Galicians celebrate the new wines of their harvest alongside the star of their traditional Magosto festival, the chestnut. There are many areas of Galicia where we have walked and noticed entire forests of Chestnut trees.

They have distinctive long flowers like yellow ribbons and some of the trees being so ancient, have trunks over one metre in diameter. It appears in some areas, they have been substantially lopped in recent years but have come back with a vengeance and can still have the strength to hold thick branches with a completely hollow trunk.

The Magosto festival (roasting of chestnuts) in Galicia was originally a pagan one of fertility, where the fire represented the sun and the earth was the God of fertility. Magosto is now celebrated at home or in parks, however the Celts traditionally held theirs on a mountain in a clearing of the forest.

When I have travelled in Asia, I have loved the aroma of roasting chestnuts but never tried them. I have previously heard about the chestnut jam made in Galicia and have been searching since we arrived. Finally I found ‘creme de castanas’ in the local supermarket which tastes like a hazelnut butter………..delicious on hot toast! Well worth the wait.

GOODBYE TO TANQUIAN ORGANIC FARM

The month went very quickly staying at Tanqian Organic Farm in Ferreira de Panton. We had some very funny moments here. Apart from the donkeys chanting with us during yoga, my other favourite moment was during our daily walk into town for our chocolate supply. On our return down a narrow bend, a few goats came leaping up the road at us like gazelles out for their daily exercise. They had cut loose from their 90+ year old owners who could barely walk and were busy waving their sticks at them. In Europe we have noticed that age does not stop anyone here; people just keep on doing what they have always done until they can’t walk anymore. It’s fantastic to see.  Much to our surprise, within 30 seconds the lady had her goats back inside the gate again………..

Very sad to leave the Ribeira Sacra and everybody at Tanquian farm, most of all I will miss Jungo

Although we have loved the coastal areas of Galicia, we were excited about heading  to the countryside for some serenity and to explore the magnificent steep slopes of the Ribeira Sacra region. While driving from the nearby city of Ourense to Ferreira de Panton, we were speechless as we wound our way around the mountains along viaducts which seem impossible according to the laws of physics. The Spanish seem to be able to construct whatever is required to travel from one place to another. There’s a village or a river in the way……….”we’ll just go over it!” There’s a mountain in the way……..”we’ll just put a tunnel through it!” Amazing engineering; nothing stops the Spanish.

With detailed directions from the Tanquian Organic Farm, we squeezed through tiny villages, slowly and unsurely down narrow country lanes barely wide enough for our car, desperately hoping we would not come across another vehicle. After then passing through an old oak forest, we were warmly welcomed by Manu and the Tanquian team and led to our lovely 17th century tower apartment which would be our home for the next month. Having such a lusciously green scene from our balcony (image above), I just had to paint it. With the exhibition just over a month away now, I needed to get busy with my brushes to complete another 4 paintings while on the farm.

 

We quickly began our exploration of the 5 acre property in Panton, firstly to find out what organic produce was available because we have not been able to find much anywhere else in Galicia. We tried bunches of vibrant red currants, nisperos, blueberries, beans, zucchini and lettuce. Such a luxury to have beautiful fresh food and even better……….freshly baked German style bread.

 

Nisperos, also known as loquats, originate from China and have the texture and taste of an apricot with some extra tartness. We loved them on our salads. In one of the veggie patches we found one of the best looking scarecrows, who has lost a bit of muscle mass over the years, carefully guarding the produce.

There was much inspiration for my painting on the farm. Look at this handsome Cock!

Manu and Paul had family visiting from Denmark and we were treated with an invitation to their family bbq feast around the fire pit. Beautiful salads and BBQ meats with a large quantity of red wine of the Panton area were shared, later followed by the beating of drums and Spanish singing. We had such a fun night and felt very privileged to be there.

One of my favourite parts of our stay on Tanquian Farm, were the donkeys. There are 6 indigenous species of donkeys in Spain, all nearly extinct, being as emblematic of the country as a bull or flamenco dancer. Mostly only seen now in rural Galicia and Andalucia, they have been used for carrying goods, people and pulling carts since before the recording of history. They are highly intelligent and friendly, however their stubbornness is now known to be a highly developed sense of self preservation. If they are not confident about their next step, they won’t take it. They are more suited to steep terrain and love to walk along the edge of cliffs and look down as it gives them more confidence. (I will definitely never ride a donkey)

I have never had any experience with donkeys (apart from reading ‘Winnie the Poo’ books), or heard them calling……..they sound like a cow having a party then possibly having an asthma attack. We have managed to keep up our yoga early every morning and a few times when we have started the chanting, the donkeys decided to join in, leaving us in fits of laughter. Of course, John smartly replied, “Good morning darling!”

FERVENZA de AUGACAIDA

We have had many beautiful walks in the immediate area surrounding Tanquian farm of Panton, but the one to Fervenza de Augacaida was definitely the most memorable. This day, we packed a light snack and water for a 2 to 3 hour walk to one of the highest but least known waterfalls in Galicia.

Very soon into a walk through a stunning forest, the raincoats came out of the backpack and we descended the very steep mountain on an easy road in the occasional shower of rain. After two hours of descent and only seeing two cars, we finally reached the beginning of the track down to the waterfall. We then knew we were in for a total of 5 hours of walking, nobody told us we could drive to the start of the walk……ha ha.

The actual trail to the waterfall was gorgeous, passing an endless network of old rock walls and ruins. Thoroughly enjoying ourselves, we carefully climbed down the final 200m of track which was very slippery in the now extremely heavy rain – can’t turn back now! By the time we arrived at the bottom, we were so wet and hungry. Here is a short video clip of us enjoying the Galician Summer in Panton!

(click the link below to download)

Fervenza de Augacaida

As soon as we started our climb up again, the crashing sound of thunder echoed around the gorge making us lift our pace. Hoping we would be fairly safe in the thick forest, we still came close to running up the track which soon became the main drainage route for the torrential rain. We were now trudging through a fast flowing river that was zigzagging its way down the slope. This proved too much for our raincoats and waterproof shoes. As if that wasn’t enough, suddenly a fountain of mud spurted over the rocks across the path……….only one way to go. All we could do was laugh at ourselves, which ended abruptly with more crashes of thunder roaring through the forest. We made record time for that hill climb……squelch, squelch, squelch. By the time we made it home, we ate everything in sight.

I thought it may be interesting and perhaps beneficial to outline my complete painting process.

People often ask what motivated me to become a painter and where do I find my inspiration for the creative process. I think my love of art was always present, with hours spent drawing in my childhood which was abandoned for maths and science later in high school. Sadly, I gave up the only part of school I enjoyed. It wasn’t until my mid 30’s that I began drawing classes which led me to dabbling in paints and borrowing “how to paint” library books. Painting is like a drug; difficult to stop, yet so frustrating I question why I keep coming back for more torture. I cannot believe how many people say to me, “Oh how beautiful, what a relaxing and indulging thing to do.” I just smile.

It is not called “Pain….ting” for nothing!

I love one of Renoir’s quotes, “The pain passes, but the beauty remains.”  Yes, the pain eventually passes, sometimes beauty remains while other times the paint all gets scraped off……….a lot of that lately.

Another quote that resonates with me, “Art is about emotion; if art needs to be explained it is no longer art.” The art academics probably wouldn’t agree, as I discovered when studying fine art that there is so much emphasis about the ‘concept’ rather than learning any skills. Why can’t we encourage both? I prefer to create art that directly connects with the viewer, they can make up their own story. Most of my inspiration comes from nature. I will refrain from writing you a 20 page essay.

Painting Process:

After sketching a variety of possible compositions for a painting idea, I roughly plan which techniques will suit the image most and quickly cover the canvas with thin washes of paint. I try to cover most of the white, except where I leave some exposed to represent light shining through the final layers.

 

 

Once the canvas is mostly covered, I am able to make better decisions about what is working and not working.

I have a basic system of working, however I can paint intuitively as I build up the entire painting as a whole, establishing lights and darks early in the process. Some of the underlying colours start to shine through already and I make adjustments to colours which are too bright or dull.

Once I am happy with the overall development, I begin to use bold impasto brush strokes or palette knife applications to give an impression; not an exact image of the subject or scene.

This is an effective way of adding textural elements to the painting. I may use layers overlapping and then sometimes scratch back into the layers with oil bars, which work like drawing with a crayon.

Many oil painters paint the background first while working with dark tones, then add the lightest highlights at the end. Whereas, I am more unpredictable, sometimes leaving the background until last. However, with oils you do need to remember that you cannot put dark tones over an already dried light layer that is applied thicker than a wash, because it will eventually cause the paint to crack.

Having multiple decisions yet to be made on how to complete a piece, with much angst, I proceed with what will hopefully be the final touches. If all fails, I walk away for awhile so I can gain from a fresh look.  I am always surprised when I finally put the paint brushes down and declare, “it’s finished!” I usually leave it for a few days before I sign it, just in case I change my mind…….which is every single time.

Although painting is the most challenging and frustrating thing I have ever done (apart from website design), it is rewarding and I know I will never stop learning…….that is the fun part! Many people give up on painting because it takes so long to learn, but I believe anyone can. They just have to have a desire and be prepared to spend endless years developing their skills and be warned……you will never be completely satisfied. This is where the desire comes into being.

Our last weekend in Cedeira luckily coincided with their annual music festival. We happened to be retracing our favourite walk from town along the series of coastal cliffs overlooking the Atlantic, climbed the steep track through the bush and felt like we had walked onto a movie set. Carefully making our way between families sprawled over picnic rugs, we headed towards the sound of bagpipes (gaitas) and tambourines. It was a perfect warm sunny afternoon for a siesta on the grass…….and those in need were taking the opportunity, bellies out for baking! We stayed for awhile on the cool windy coastal cliffs which were ringing with the sounds of six bagpipers………I had goosebumps, it was very surreal.

I don’t think this part of Galician culture will disappear in the near future; there are over 5000 registered bagpipers in the town of Ourense. This reminds me of the very famous Galician bagpiper, Cristina Pato who was one of the team of musicians in the brilliant movie, ‘Music of Strangers’. If you haven’t seen the film, it is about the world renowned cellist Yo Yo Ma who gathers musicians from all around the world, who are masters of their instruments. Some play very unusual instruments of which you may have never heard before. Their individual life stories are fascinating and inspiring, overcoming extreme life situations and still pursuing their passion. They are called the ‘Silk Road Ensemble’ and there are some videos on YouTube if you are interested.

Here is a link to listen to some of Cristina Pato’s music, she’s a dynamo…….and no, I am not doing a painting of bagpipes for my exhibition.

PRAIA DAS CATEDRAIS: Ribadeo

On a gorgeous sunny day, this was our last chance to drive towards the town of Ribadeo and see the surrounding sights. Once again, the coastal drive from Ortigueira was, as we Aussies say ‘Gob smacking’ (‘fantastico’……just in case google translator fails on that one!). Just stunning beaches and coastal cliff tops again and again for hours…..yawn, yawn! ha ha

We then found the cutest little fishing village by complete accident, so we had to stay for lunch. Another narrow, steep and windy road down to Porto do Barqueiro just passed the town of O Barqueiro. An amazing amount of infrastructure for only 10 boats.

What a life! I am glad that my hair has grown a bit since my shearing in Santiago nearly 3 months ago, I no longer look like a Buddhist monk.

One tip for visiting popular spots in Spain, go early before everyone wakes up (about 10) or mid afternoon while they are having lunch and siestas. The Praia das Catedrais, claimed to be the jewel of Galicia, receives hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. In three months we have barely seen any tourists, so we found this hard to believe but arrived mid afternoon just in case. Yes, there were many tour buses, but thankfully most people were in the cafe. There are substantial timber boardwalks along this coastal strip for enjoying the views, my favourite area was an extensive area of vibrant wildflowers stretching like a velvet carpet over the cliff tops.

The Cathedrals Beach is a series of rock formations which remind me of the cliffs in the Great Australian Bight, with extra sculptural shapes that make it unique. We would not agree that this area is the jewel of Galicia; as I have said before, the whole of Galicia is one very large jewellery store.

JOHN’S COOKING CORNER:

Well I have to say, ‘John’s kitchen rules!’ We haven’t seen any paellas in Galicia, but compared with elsewhere, I think John managed to create the perfect paella, packed with seafood and asparagus. It was so delicious, I don’t think there was much chewing going on….

SOCIAL SCENE:

As you can see we make friends easily with the locals. There wasn’t much action in the local bars of Cedeira, but our friends by the river showed us how to shake their tail feather….

And these ones spoke English………..your kidding!

We are always sad to leave each region, however our next stop is the city of Lugo for five nights which will be different from the coastal villages we have been enjoying.

LUGO

Despite scepticism from the rest of the Celtic nations as to the authenticity of Galicia being part of the Celtic League, Galicians take great pride in their heritage; bagpipes and folk songs being a key part of cultural life. The modern city of Lugo still bears the name of a Celtic god. One of the best things about Lugo is the entire historic centre is ‘car free’, resulting in a quiet and relaxed atmosphere. The old town is enclosed by one of the best preserved Roman walls constructed in the 3rd century, spanning over more than two kilometres of which you are able to walk along the top and view the city and surrounds.

Our apartment was opposite the very beautiful 12th century gothic style, Lugo Cathedral.

On our first evening we heard the familiar sound of bagpipes, so we followed the music into the Praza Santa Maria. We were privileged to join in the fun of a local Galician festival, where families were gathered to witness the outstanding performances of their friends and relatives from the age of 5 up to 60’s?? Aside from the talented musicians and dancers, the costumes were exquisite.

Unfortunately, this week John was struck down with ‘man flu’……..probably recovering from me dragging him up and down mountains. There are many beautiful walks in the surrounding areas of Lugo, but we will have to wait for another visit to Galicia. Next, we are venturing into the countryside for four weeks staying on an organic farm.

Galicia has a history of many very strong, almost superhuman women, witches who still have an ability to inspire even today’s modern hard working mothers of the world. If you think your day is busy and stressful trying to juggle too many things, spare a thought for the women of the past. These women were as tough as they come. There were no washing machines, dishwashers or daycare centres so they could have the privilege of a career. In between hand washing clothes in the river, digging potatoes and preparing meals, some were required to fight battles with their husband…………all in a days work! Our recent trip to the large city of A Coruna on the North Coast of Galicia, revealed one outstandingly brave woman from the 16th century.

MARIA PITA

A Coruna has many historical sites, my favourite being in the Praza de Maria Pita where there stands a beautiful monument in her honour. The English fleet were trying to gain control of the waterways from England down to Portugal. Maria Pita was one of the few women who fought the battle of A Coruna alongside their husbands. Unfortunately, Maria’s husband was killed by the shot from a crossbow which inspired her to overpower and kill an English soldier, then succeeding to climb to the highest point of the wall. From here she called to all the soldiers with honour to follow her, with renewed strength and inspiration they successfully defended their city. For this, Maria Pita is recognised as one of the most honourable women of Spain.

The other most popular location in the city is to visit the Tower of Hercules. I don’t want to bore you with another lighthouse, but this one was built by the Romans in the 1st century and is the world’s oldest functioning lighthouse. However, it has been renovated many times and I didn’t see much of the original still visible. It was still worth a short stop for a picnic lunch.

MARIA SOLINA

Galicia has been long known as the ‘land of witches and superstition’. The most famous of Galicia’s witches is Marina Solina, who lived in the 17th century and somehow managed to avoid the stake during the Spanish Inquisition. Being the mad artist that I am, thinking of witches conjures up visions of ugly, cackling women stirring cauldrons with body parts poking out of the brew. While these fantasies are intriguing to some degree, I am relieved to hear the Galicia is not spooky, just mysterious. These women identified as witches in the past, due to their apparent supernatural powers, appear to have been simply, enlightened beings who had developed much higher than normal levels of perception. Sure, the likes of Marina Solina admitted she practised certain rituals, but only used her skills to help and heal people. Her heightened sense of awareness enabled her to see and know things that others couldn’t. Born in the wealthy fishing village of Cangas (Vigo area), Marina owned many farms and properties, upon which the Catholic church located some of their churches and colleges. She was well loved for all her help and care.

Because the Ria de Vigo was thriving economically, it was also a victim to many attacks and robberies. At the time of the attack by the Turkish fleet, Maria motivated a large group of women; their forces combined with her wisdom, enabled them success in defeating the Turkish. This event then attracted the attention of the Inquisition. Sadly, Marina was then captured and tortured in the prison of Santiago de Compostela and there is no evidence as to what happened thereafter.

FRAGAS DO EUME:

In Galicia, they give the name Fragas to areas of dense forest which allow a dappled light through the trees. Fragas do Eume located around the Eume river south of A Coruna, is supposed to be the best representation of an Atlantic forest, covering an area of over 9,000 hectares.

Both John and I were enthusiastic for a bush walk after spending the last few months in coastal regions of Galicia. The man in the tourist information hut gestured where the walk started and that it was 6 km to the Monastery of Caaveiro, which I really wanted to visit. I told John that it was only 12 km round trip; we could do it easily. So off we walked across the swinging foot bridge, into the luscious green forest with our picnic lunch. The moss covered tree trunks, strongly reminded us of the South Island, New Zealand. Again, we walked for about an hour without seeing anybody and had come to the conclusion, everyone else must have driven to the Monastery. The track was quite wet and narrow, following the course of the crystal waters of the rio Eume…..but no hills! We guessed we were within half an hour of the Monastery, perfect timing for lunch.

Suddenly, our lovely path came to an abrupt end and as we looked up the mountain beside; there we found a little hobbit track which involved slippery rocks and we were so lucky………….they had so kindly provided ropes to hold onto for the climb. Now we knew why all the other tourists had driven, something may have been lost in translation, I think?? John took a deep breath and said, ‘you’ve got to be kidding!’ Up we went. Half way up, we saw the huge rock which was the reason for our climb.

What a stunning view though. With legs of jelly we continued all the way up and then all the way down again and an hour later arrived at the bridge near the Monastery………or so we thought. Ha ha

After consulting the map on the bridge which was quite useless, we made the decision that we had to climb straight up a very beautiful slate constructed road to the Monastery. Another mountain………….John didn’t like me very much!

We admired the beautiful slate work, mostly to take our mind off the hill climb. Finally, the 9th century Monastery of Caaveiro was in sight. Of course there were more stairs to climb inside the Monastery, which leads you to some very special vistas through the surrounding mountains and forest below. Definitely worth the walk, we are on talking terms again. Needless to say, we walked back along the road to our car……….we know our limitations!

 

After winding around endless mountains through heavy fog, we arrived very late in the village of Cedeira which will be our new home for the next few weeks. We were impressed by yet another lovely beach at our doorstep. Our expectations were of a more touristy town full of holiday resorts……we were so wrong! Cedeira is another fishing village, but a serious working port with fishing boats large enough to cross any sea in the world. Legends tell of the men and women of this coast originally descending from whales and fish. We have eaten so much seafood, we should be looking like fish and I know if I don’t stop eating all this bread and patatas, I will soon definitely resemble a whale.

We usually spend our first day in a new place just walking as far as we can in the immediate area to gain a feel for the place. Enjoying our first stroll around the stunning harbour, which is almost enclosed by continuous cliffs towering 600m above the charming village of Cedeira, we really thought that the scenery couldn’t get any better than this.

Of course, we were wrong again!

I am not one for photographing every monument and church I walk past, but this one was lovely and quite moving. A tribute to a fisherman who lost his wife, unfortunately there is minimal information about it. It seems to me that this monument contains more meaning.

The promenade around the harbour seemed to end at the wharf, until we spotted some stairs hidden in a corner…….so what do you do? You climb up them! A bit of grunting on the way up, then behind the cliff’s edge we found an old  fort with cannons placed inside, unfortunately it was all locked up. Further along the cliff, we looked down into what looked like old Roman baths which we later discovered were used in the past as a live fish holding area.

Venturing further around the cliff tops we found a small area carefully excavated, which we assumed was a discovery of some ruins. An investigation of the internet revealed it was a very recent discovery; only 6 months ago. To date, they have found a monument with oven and a sauna bath (not so sure if the translation was so accurate here…..ha). It looks like it could be some more hill forts (castros), which are prevalent along the coastal regions of Galicia. I am constantly amazed by nature, when man abandons his constructions how effectively the natural environment can bury or camouflage these structures for centuries. We can think our inventions and architecture are so very important, but when we are gone the environment will just carry on without any fuss like we never existed.

The following weekend, we decided to drive beyond our first walk as we had a lot of ground to cover. My obsession with lighthouses has not yet ended, our first stop after winding down another road wide enough for a cow, was the Faro de Punta Candelaria. A gorgeous setting, tucked between rocky cliff faces with the most divine coastline as far as the eye can see with the occasional horse and cow wandering passed.

I decided not to paint this particular lighthouse, however I am painting a series of faros and this is what my preliminary sketches look like prior to commencing a painting. The sketching allows me to capture the true perspective of a scene because a photograph shortens all the perspectives and you lose a lot of form and sense of space.

SAN ANDRES de TEIXIDO

We continued on the narrow road to a spectacular lookout point, where we could see the village of San Andres de Teixido at the bottom of the cliffs, nestled amongst deliciously green hills. It didn’t look far, so I suggested walking down an inviting grassy track and then we would have earned a big boozy lunch. I have no words to describe the scenery from the lookout and a photo cannot possible capture this………….

So we began our pre-lunch walk…….it was all downhill, can’t complain!!

The very steep grassy path turned into a rocky downhill climb resulting in legs of jelly and a few back pains for some. I had also a few passing thoughts about the uphill climb back to the car later….help! Our village was in sight again, hunger pains pushing us on.

The village of San Andres de Teixido is a pre-Christian pilgrimage site with a holy well with a current population of approximately 45 people with the occasional tourist. This region is known as the “Sea of Barnacles” because there are many locals who risk their life daily, often suspended from cliffs down to the lower rocks to collect percebes (goose necked barnacles). Being a speciality for the area, we promptly ordered a serving of percebes to try with our beer. They are quite interesting, resembling a prehistoric crab claw attached to a tube of rhinoceros skin. Before I started gagging at the sight of them, I quickly gestured to the waiter to demonstrate how to eat them. There was no way my mouth was biting through that!

Eating percebes is an easy technique where you hold it near the head and snap it just a little and pull the contents out.

Be careful not to break it right through, because if you blow it……then you are going to have to suck it!

Oh, we could have had hours of fun with this – they were delicious. After staggering uphill to the car, we continued north along the coast to the lookout from the highest cliffs in Europe. It was the most incredible coastal scenery I have ever seen, enhanced by the cattle wandering everywhere – lucky there were only a few cars along this stretch.

After feeling completely satisfied from lunch, the scenery leaving us speechless, and spending time with some very happy cattle, we drove further north wondering what we would find next. Galicia is such a special region and we suggest to anyone interested to come and visit soon, before the rest of the world realise how amazing it is too.

Our day finished at Faro de Cabo Ortegal, the point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Cantabrian Sea. While the lighthouse is nothing special, the drive out to the headland was absolutely divine, including the view from the lighthouse.

 

This week I will take you on a journey to the end of the world, amongst the wildest and most rugged headlands of the Costa da Morte, in the land of shipwrecks and witches. Needless to say, I have developed an obsession for lighthouses; each having their own unique character. There may be one or two featured in my exhibition in September. Here is my favourite one at Corrubedo, in operation since 1854. However, its presence still failed to prevent numerous shipwrecks and the loss of over 600 lives.

Last weekend we explored the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), which has a fascinating history aside from its shipwrecks. Beginning in Muxia, at the Shrine of Virxe da Barca (The virgins boat) and A Pedra dos Cadrís (kidney rock) where it is believed to have healing powers for rheumatism and kidney related ailments. There are many rocks, fountains and streams through Galicia which are believed to have miraculous powers or assist with fertility. The council have had to put a stop to people testing the authenticity of such beliefs……they could set up fertility tents and make a fortune!

FISTERRA

After a mandatory seafood lunch, Cape Fisterre (end of the world) was our next destination. My visit here exactly one year ago after completing my Camino Santiago, was a cold and gusty day; a war at sea crashing the most Western point of the Iberian Peninsula. It must be very rare to experience the Atlantic Ocean on such a perfectly sunny day without even a ripple in the water. I was finding it difficult to believe it was the same place. Traditionally, this is where pilgrims come to reflect after completing their pilgrimage and previously would participate in the cleansing burning of their belongings……usually old clothes and boots (preferably, their walking poles).

It was a tough walk back into town, having to continuously look at this magnificent scenery. You could easily walk for days. There is a Camino dos Faros (The Lighthouse Way), linking Malpica in the North to Fisterre hugging 200km of pristine coastline. I am very tempted to come back another year in Summer for this walk……..John is groaning, but deep down he knows he will love it.

In addition to the breathtaking dramatic coastline of the Costa da Morte, it also has high ecological value in its National Parks and a Protected Bird life Reserve on the Sisargus Islands, which we hope to visit in the coming weeks on the Northern Coast of Galicia.

We followed the coastal roads all the way home, with the deep blue sea on our right and the sculptural rocky mountains hovering over our left. The large port of Corcubion was one of the first charming towns we entered, but were surprised to find on the Southern side a very ugly coal fired power station boldly dominating the beautiful harbour. We later discovered it had been a coal station established as a refuelling point for the many steamships travelling off Cape Fisterre, necessary due to the regular storms the ships would endure.

In the next bay, we were welcomed with this special scene….

From here, we passed through the prettiest little villages then one deserted sandy beach after the other. Because Europe is so heavily populated compared with Australia, we just didn’t expect to find anything like this…..

Through the estuaries from Corcubion down to Muros are rated as some of the most dangerous of all the Costa da Morte. On this day, you could travel them on a stand up paddle board. I would say travelling through Galicia is very much like looking in a gem shop……full of surprises and you cannot say which one you like the best. We love it all!

EUCALYPTUS TREES

While seeing the familiar blue-green of the Eucalyptus trees scattered through the hills of Galicia was initially warming to an Australian, reading of the disastrous effects from Eucalyptus crops in Spain and Portugal soon changed my feelings. The Eucalptus tree was first introduced here in the 19th century by a Galician monk who had been a missionary in Australia. Unfortunately, there are 2 to 3 million acres of them growing in Iberia for the production of mainly paper pulp. Farmers and environmental groups have protested at the large scale planting of Eucalyptus because it is drying up water sources, causing soil erosion, destroying wild life (local fauna cannot feed on it), and driving the small farmers from their land. These small farmers still use mainly man power instead of machinery, thus providing much employment.

It is another example of man interfering with a perfectly created world. Each area has its own unique flora and fauna in correct proportions, which belong together and are interdependent.

JOHN’S COOKING CORNER

During various cafe stops, we have tasted some delicious empanadas. They are usually filled with mince meat or tuna between pastry; Spain’s version of a pie. When we saw empanada pastry for sale in the supermarket, John decided to create his own style of empanada…………..onion, garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes, pimientos, baby squid and cockles. Yum!!

SOCIAL SCENE

Well, either our Espanol has improved a little, or we are just getting better at sign language. Each little meeting with locals expands from using the occasional noun and verb to almost completing one sentence. When someone walks backwards from us, we know there is a possibility we have offended them using the wrong word……lo siento (sorry)!

While preparing our applications for our visas to Spain last year, we met a young English student (Natalia) from Madrid visiting Noosa for a few months, who came to our aid in translating the application forms. We stayed in communication and recently met with Natalia and her family in Vila Garcia for a lovely lunch. They had spent the weekend there for a wedding and it was fantastico and very special to meet again. Thank you Natalia.

The fishermen with their brightly coloured boats, mussel farms and lighthouses have been a great inspiration to my painting. We sadly left the gorgeous village of Porto do Son yesterday to travel to the North Coast of Galicia. Who knows what we will see next!! I know we will miss the stunning sunsets over the Ria de Muros and Porto do Son now has one less witch.

NEXT EXHIBITION: Santiago de Compostela 4 to 22 September, 2018

Gallery of Hotel Araguaney

Staying in Porto do Son is the perfect opportunity to investigate the roots of Galicia’s intriguing Celtic heritage. During my pilgrimage across Northern Spain last year, I passed through a small village O Cebreiro, consisting of very cute circular stone huts (castros) set on top of a mountain overlooking spectacular countryside. It was unfortunately very touristy, so I did not linger for long. When I discovered what these circular buildings were and that there were ruins of a similar settlement near Porto do Son. The Castros de Barona was one of our first destinations in the area.

Castros (hill forts) were fortified enclosures surrounded by ditches and walls in which circular stone buildings with thatched roofs were constructed in settlements along the coastal areas of Galicia. Usually located on mountains and elevated coastal positions for defence purposes, they also have breathtaking views. The location of the Castros de Barona seemed like a fantastic excuse for a Sunday walk from our new home town. We ambled along our favourite coastal walk, checking if the surf was beckoning……….no, still too cold! Venturing around the next bay and down someone’s driveway, which thankfully led down a goat’s track into the bush, we climbed up and down rocky paths passing more barking German Shepherds and were beginning to wonder if we should have followed the road. Luckily John enjoys adventures as much as I do. About two hours later, we stumbled down another very steep and rocky (bouldery) path and we had our fort in sight….

This ancient Celtic village was built approximately 2500 years ago, however was apparently not discovered until 1993 due its isolated position. We took the time to wander around the constructions and take in the stormy ocean views. John paid close attention to the basic cooking facilities to determine whether they would be adequate for making his tortillas…..

Visiting such ancient places reminds me of how easy life is today and yet people complain more than ever before. Imagine having to hunt for your food every day, while also defending yourself from the enemy, not to mention bracing yourself from the harsh elements of the Atlantic. The housework would be easy though……….I would be a good housewife and stay at home by the fire, while John did the ‘hunting and gathering’ in his fox skin attire. A sight to see!

DESASTRE DEL PRESTIGE 2002

Since the weather has been warming up, we have loved an after-dinner walk along the headland to absorb the sunset. We noticed an interesting modern stone sculpture and kept wondering what it was about. Finally, I searched the internet and sadly discovered it was in memory of Spain’s biggest ever ecological disaster.

In 2002, a single hulled tanker, larger than 2 football fields, loaded with 77,000 tons of oil sank 250km off the Coast of the Costa da Morte, with lethal effects on birds and the marine ecosystems. Thousands of volunteers dressed in protective clothing and masks cleaned up the coast numerous times over subsequent years. While the long term effects on the environment and local people are unknown, the memories of such a tragic event for one of the best preserved coasts of Europe will remain forever.

Seeing the Castros and then reading about the ecological disaster was a reminder to work harder on reducing our environmental footprint. A simple life is the only way.

On a lighter note, we are very lucky to be experiencing such a pristine area at its very best; sunny skies, white sandy beaches, enveloped with crystal clear turquoise water.

 

RIO TAMBRE AREA

We have enjoyed many walks and country drives around Porto do Son. Close to the gorgeous town of Noia, the Rio Tambre feeds into the large Ria and flows past old villages built amongst luscious green mountains. We found a large dam on the map, and decided to head into the mountains in search of another adventure. After winding around steep narrow roads for half an hour we ended up back where we started………I was navigating again! Second attempt, we climbed steadily in a large circle looking down into the abyss for two hours without seeing another car. We couldn’t believe that we had such stunning rural scenery all to ourselves. Eventually returning back in the vicinity of Noia, we couldn’t resist taking photos of this amazing Roman bridge, Ponte Nafonso. Although the true antiquity of the bridge is unknown, it is thought to be of around the 12th century and previously the only way to cross the estuary.

FOODIES SPOT

Trying to think of new ways to use our very large bag of white beans, inspired these vegan patties:

Mix together all the following ingredients; mashed white beans (2 hours cooking), chopped onion, garlic, peppers, grated ginger and zucchini, pinch of rosemary and thyme, sprinkle of sunflower seeds. Bake in hot oven until brown on top.

Optional: add a tin of chopped chicharrillos or sardines

They were delicious with salad, but John (master chef) thought a bit of jamon would have made them even better!

Heading North toward Muros, after a very picturesque drive North of Cambados from Vilagarcia de Arousa along the coast, we arrived in the small fishing port of Porto do Son. Well, we were sure we had reached heaven! When we chose to book accommodation here, we just picked a spot on the map not really knowing what to expect. Our apartment overlooks the marina with extended vistas down the mountainous rias de Muros and Noia and 5km across to the opposite side. We decided we really didn’t need to venture far from this piece of paradise. Um…..did I mention the surf beaches? John’s eyes lit up on our first drive around the immediate area and this is what we found…………

We were both very excited to see the surf (3 to 4 foot, not too big for me) and there were other surfers out riding them very well. I was keen to go in and John suggested putting my feet in to feel the water. I immediately rolled up my pants and ran into the water………..you have got to be kidding, my feet are still blue 2 days later. Can you surf in Ugg boots?

Porto do Son is a genuine working fishing port, with no leisure craft to be seen. It is a very small port compared with those of the Rias Baixas, which has made it more inviting as a visitor to wander around the marina and have a close look at all their brightly coloured fishing boats, nets and crab pots. As we move to different regions of Galicia, we enjoy new experiences which allow different insights of the Galician culture, giving me much inspiration for my art. Here are some inspirational photos:

Through the eyes of a visitor, fishing and the preserving of seafood, seems to be the main industry in the coastal regions of Galicia. Of course, we have had to sample every type of seafood…..John is growing extra arms every day, he has eaten so much pulpo (octopus).

 

WILDFLOWERS IN GALICIA

All through the region, you cannot help noticing the Maio (May) flowers which are the most intensely vibrant yellow. While walking around town, we have been surprised to see bunches tucked under handles of front doors and between the front bumpers of cars…..such a lovely thought. I then decided to do a series of small wildflower paintings, including one installation on someone’s front door. So then commenced our quest through the entire town of Porto do Son, for that perfect rustic timber door. Lucky John is a very patient man!

We have had many spectacular coastal walks from Porto do Son. There seems to be endless magnifico white sandy beaches with dramatic rocky headlands winding around charming villages. Oooh, I am so sick of it! Ha ha ha

Here are some more views from our walks. Some of the scenes of flowers creeping up rocky walls remind me of Gustav Klimt’s absolutely delicious landscape paintings.

 

BAR Moreira del Ria

Last night, we had some surprise visitors from the Sunshine Coast in Australia. John’s cousin (Craig) and his wife (Anne) drove 800 km from San Sebastian to see what we were up to in Porto do Son. Being too wet for walking, we decided to introduce them to our local friends in the Bar Moreira del Ria opposite the marina, where one beer turned into two. The warm and bubbly owner Delores and her patrons, have made us feel very welcome. Through dramatic sign language and very slow speaking, we have managed to converse…….we find our Espanol improves after the second beer! Previously one lazy sunny afternoon, we met a friendly retired fisherman who insisted in attempting conversation with us at the bar. We were hopeless in understanding him, however he persisted. After much laughing, he spoilt us with a beautiful rendition of a well known Mexican song “volver volver”. It was a very special moment. John being a pianist, I suggested they hold a concert and Delores can collect the money at the door. Hearing the song, reminded us of the movie “Lucky” which we saw on the flight over, starring Harry Dean Stanton. If you ever have the opportunity, this movie is a gem and a magnificent performance by Stanton. I hope we meet our fisherman friend again; he was quite a character and I would love to paint a portrait.

We had lots of fun and laughs with Craig, Anne and Delores and sadly said goodbye to Craig and Anne this morning as they headed back the 600km to Bilbao.

John topped off the family visit by presenting them with his version of the Spanish Omelette for breakfast before their long journey.

 

 

 

We were keen to visit Vigo, but we discovered that four weeks living in Cambados was never going to be long enough for us. The town has a very welcoming vibe, while keeping a serenity which allows us to relax in its ambience. One of our favourite elements of Galicia is definitely the food. Twice a week we have collected a lovely array of fresh produce from the local market (enormous for a small town), despite mustering all our will power, we could not resist the fruit and nut wood fired bread particular to this region. Each loaf is big enough to feed 50 people, so fortunately they cut you off a section.

 

Apart from eating all the abundant fresh seafood, we have been enjoying our own Galician style cooking too. John is becoming an expert at making the tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette with potatoes). Another favourite of mine is the Galician white bean soup, to which I added grated ginger. Only problem was with the nut sprinkle I added to the accompanying salad………….it was a tooth breaker, I actually added raw lentils – I didn’t have my glasses on!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VIGO

Exploring the Ria Baixas included a visit to the energetic city of Vigo, which is well known for its art scene.

I was not disappointed; stumbling immediately upon one of the most awesome public sculptures, monumento de trabajo, one of the key figures of Galician art of the 20th century. This was created by a sculptural group in dedication to the many extraordinary fishermen of Galicia. It is also by far, the best depiction of the gluteus maximus I have ever seen.

I then struggled passed many fabulous shoe (zapatos) shops, along the very ornate promenade of Vigo down to the main plaza. We could not resist the great selection of vibrant cafes packed with locals dining alfresco, soaking up the first sign of sun in Galicia in the previous two weeks. It was still a little ‘alfreezo’ for us Aussies, so we sat inside. More kind thoughts for the fishermen who risk their lives daily in the Atlantic Ocean, as we devoured the most succulent octopus (pulpo) we have tried anywhere. Galician style slow cooked pulpo is then seared in butter with potatoes and sprinkled with paprika. I think we are getting the hang of the long boozy Spanish Sunday lunches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stomachs satisfied, we climbed up to the highest point in Vigo within the Parque Monte del Castro. Here, we took in the 360 degree breathtaking views over the Ria Baixas and city of Vigo. The park and city contain historical elements of over 2000 years, too much to detail here. Vigo’s fishing port rivals some of the biggest in the world, the Ria also being full of mussel rafts. The Rias of Galicia contain over 3000 mussel rafts and supply over 50% of the world’s total mussel production.  Guess what’s on the menu?

 

CRUCEIROS

All through Galicia, even the smallest village, you will find stone crosses created on long thin shafts. They are mostly found in the town central plaza and may be used to denote a social or religious area. Each one is unique and it was in the park of Vigo where I found an exquisite cruceiro.

 

 

DONON: Faro de Carbo Home

It was a long and windy road in to the coastal town of Donon. No direct route, but we now know to avoid trying to drive through the maze of narrow lanes in villages, where you can easily end up down someone’s driveway with nowhere to turn around. Barely noted on the map, we drove until the end of the road in hope of finding a headland with lighthouses (faros) of which we had seen enticing photographs. Where every road ends, fortunately in Spain, you usually find a cafe. After John had his caffeine fix, where the road finished we began walking with a picnic on our backs. Eventually, we came across the most rugged, gnarly mountains towering over the threatening ocean, protecting the land behind.

I love the wildness of the Atlantic Coast, being exposed to every element. It was refreshing to hear and see all the bird life here; just gliding gracefully while we were bracing ourselves from the incessant icy wind gusts. We walked to  both the light houses, then randomly made our way along bush tracks to the more protected side of the headland, hoping for a sheltered picnic spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we came over the crest of a hill, we knew we had found our picnic paradise.

The drive and walk well exceeded any expectations…..Galicia is full of surprises and we look forward to many more! Unfortunately, we said ‘adios’ to Cambados last week and have headed North to the Costa de Morte (coast of death); the land of shipwrecks and witches…………John said, ‘they don’t know there is another one on her way.’

I won’t tell you everything about Cambados, because you really should visit here to experience this enchanting place yourself………..and you will need some surprises! Sadly, we are only staying here for four weeks and it would take a year for me to be of any use.  Luckily the weather for the last 10 days has been superb, so we have taken the opportunity to appreciate some of the surrounding countryside which holds so many wonderful treasures. We soaked up the sunshine while strolling  through local vineyards, narrow country lanes and through wetlands adjoining the river. The beauty and intensity of the spring flowers is beyond words.

 

Cambados is packed with streets of charming architecture and medieval churches. Not a day has passed without a stroll along the bay and through town, taking the occasional opportunity to listen to comic banter across a bar. The locals seem to enjoy teasing one another as much as Aussies do……….you won’t get away with much here either!

During the week, I have been flicking my brushes around, preparing for my exhibition in Santiago de Compostela in September. The fine weather of late, has allowed me some time to sketch my compositions at some lovely locations. We are having such a busy time being tourists, painting, learning Spanish and 2 hours of daily yoga practice…..but we love it all!

 

 

RIA de BAROSA, BARRO

Last weekend we drove 30 minutes inland from Cambados to a powerful waterfall (fervenza) cascading over a rocky landscape, with a series of 17 old watermills arranged along the fervenzas. As we climbed, we explored the gorgeous old mill rooms, many being in various states of ruin. The mills comprised of two large granite wheels which were powered by the rushing water to grind grains. Until only a few decades ago, every town had at least one still in use as they were an extremely important part of their economy. Apart from the historical interest, the “Ria de Barosa” park is a very beautiful nature reserve with lovely walks at the top along the river which feeds the fervenzas.

FERVENZA de SEGADE, CALDAS

On the same day, we decided to visit another waterfall only 15 minutes from Barro, near the town Caldas. This one proved a little difficult to find……….I was the navigator of course! After driving in circles for half an hour, we decided to park in this tiny village where I happened to see a tiny sign hiding amongst trees. The path led us passed a terrifying (not happy) German Shepherd who seemed quite determined we were on his property. Hearts pumping, we traversed the side of another mountain along a goat track and found a very quaint, old Roman road passing over a very old Roman bridge (reconstructed in the 17th century).

We diverted off the track and found more ancient infrastructure with rickety old steps over  aquaducts. After another 30 minutes of following a path up and downhill, we finally found the Fervenza de Segade, Caldas. Apart from the thundering 30 metre waterfall, there were also the remains of a hydroelectric centre build around 1900 and again, old water mills following the course of the Umia River.

Mi esposo, John obviously thought he fitted in well with the ancient scene.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This week we have explored the Rias Baixas from Combarro to Pontevedra. I would like to firstly, introduce my husband John, who has joined me on this exploration of Galicia; he happens to be an excellent cook and is immersing himself in local recipes to keep the fuel up to the worker! We are both loving everything we have experienced so far. Although we only speak a little Spanish, we have managed to make friends with some locals “the Allcocks”. I don’t think they speak Spanish either!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weather is warming up and Spring is here. Grape vines are all sprouting leaves which seem to grow an inch every day. Now the rain has stopped, we are enjoying evening walks and spectacular sunsets over Cambados.

 

 

 

Last year after my Pilgrimage, I treated myself to a bus tour of the West Coast of Galicia, where I learned about these gorgeous, rustic little buildings dotted around the landscape called Horreos. Traditionally, horreos were used for storing grains to keep them dry and out of reach of rodents. Due to today’s large scale agriculture, they are no longer practical and are mainly used as a decorative store on many properties.

 

For my next painting, we decided to travel between Combarro and Pontevedra in search for that special horreo. Almost always when you look for something, there are none to be seen! Finally, one captured my attention just outside of Combarro which just happened to be close to a lovely restaurant overlooking the bay of Pontevedra. We could not resist enjoying an extremely generous lunch with the most stunning views.

About 2 hours later, we waddled off our lunch through the old town of Pontevedra, which is full of historic buildings and churches. Situated in the rias baixas (lower bays) of Galicia, Pontevedra thrived for centuries, prospering from fishing, farming and trading. By the 16th century, Pontevedra had become an international trading port.

However, the city was nearly destroyed as a result of wars, political unrest, the plague, and then long term erosion clogging its estuary. The city has since recovered and boasts a very charming medieval centre.

 

There is also the contrasting of old and new with the Los Tirantes bridge and the 12th century Burgo bridge over the Ria Lerez.

Pilgrims church

On our way home I tested my driving skills, changing gears with my right hand was downright scary……fortunately, I only found myself on the wrong side of the road once. I can only improve from now on…..